Installation

Installation of loop field
Installation of geothermal unit

-Installation of loop field-

Based on your area, you have many options for loop fields. You can install a..

Installation
Vertical Loop
Installation
Diagonal Loop
Installation
Horizontal Loop
Installation
Pond Loop

Horizontal

1. Cut your refrigerant copper lines to length(shipped with your system)
2. Clean and prep joints for soldering
3. Solder joints
4. Solder in Sacrificial anodes(shipped with your system)
5. Horizontal field application – Place copper loop in the ground on smooth surface with preferably (high conductivity AMERICAN DREAM Grout Formula)*optional*
6. Charge system with nitrogen and put under 5oo psi pressure for 24 hours(to ensure there are no solder joint leaks)
7. Horizontal loop application – Cover the loop with soft material (preferably the AMERICAN DREAM High Conductivity Grout Formula)
8. Carefully continue covering your loop with 1 foot of soft conductive material
9. Install your soaker hose(included with system)
10. Now carefully continue to cover your soaker hose with 6 inches of soft conductive material
11. Complete the back fill of your trench
12. Final check for pressure drop in loop and remove nitrogen charge from loop field
13. With everything testing positive your now ready to connect the loop field to the geothermal unit inside

Vertical/Diagonal

1. Cut your refrigerant copper lines to length(shipped with your system)
2. Clean and prep joints for soldering
3. Solder joints
4. Solder in Sacrificial anodes(shipped with your system)
5. Insert loop soaker hose and grout pump line into 3 inch bore hole
6. Charge system with nitrogen and put under 5oo psi pressure for 24 hours(to ensure there are no solder joint leaks)
7. After 24 hours of 500 psi pressure insert one loop at a time into the bore holes with soaker hose and grout pump
8. Pump AMERICAN DREAM high conductivity grout formula into bore hole removing hose as filling occurs
9. Repeat process until all loop has been successfully installed
10. Seal top 6 feet by pouring bentonite clay into bore hole
11. Final check for pressure drop in loop and remove nitrogen charge from loop field
12. With everything testing positive your now ready to connect the loop field to the geothermal unit inside

Pond

1. Cut your refrigerant copper lines to length(shipped with your system)
2. Clean and prep joints for soldering
3. Solder joints
4. Solder in Sacrificial anodes(shipped with your system)
5. Charge system with nitrogen and put under 5oo psi pressure for 24 hours(to ensure there are no solder joint leaks)
6. Final check for pressure drop in loop and remove nitrogen charge from loop field
7. Submerge copper coil into pond at a minimum depth of 6 feet
8. With everything testing positive your now ready to connect the loop field to the geothermal unit inside

Each of these ground coil options will be simplified and faster as a result of our freon copper loop.

Option 1. Contact us for our skid steer mounted drill for your vertical or diagonal drilling needs. We also will assist you in contracting with a local rock driller in you area.
Option 2. Contact us for our skid steer mounted trenching tool for your horizontal 6 ft. deep trench.
Option 3. Install your loop in a pond on your property(you can build a small pond very inexpensively)

Contact us about our AMERICAN DREAM Geothermal installation equipment and tackle this project with ease

Contact us to coordinate a local refrigerant technician to solder, test, and properly charge your system with R410 freon.

Once you have chosen the most practical and desirable loop field for your home, the installation of the freon copper coil will be similar in nature. Here are the basics:

-Installation of geothermal unit-

Unit Placement

For air units, to achieve the greatest efficiency, the heat pump should be centrally located inside the home(in conditioned space). This design provides the utmost in economy and comfort and usually can be accomplished in harmony with the design of the home or within a closet, staircase, or garage in your existing home. A heating system performs most efficiently and can be expected to produce an even warmth throughout the household when it is located properly in the structure and the warm/cool air is transmitted with properly insulated ductwork.

If possible the access panels should remain clear of obstruction for a distance of two feet to facilitate servicing and general maintenance.

Raising the heat pump off the floor a few inches is generally a good practice since this will prevent rusting of the bottom panel of the unit. We recommend that the heat pump be placed on a piece of 2” thick foam pad(included with your unit). The foam pad will smooth out any irregularities in the floor and deaden any compressor noise emitted from the bottom of the cabinet.

AMERICAN DREAM Ultra Performance heat pumps have an air-filter rack which can be installed with the removable end (where the filter is inserted) on either side to facilitate changing the filter.

ELECTRICAL CONNECTIONS

The heat pump has a concentric 1.093” / 0.875” knockout for power supply connection to the electrical box, as well as one for connection to the circulator pump module for ground loop applications. There are two 1/2” openings with plastic grommets (grommet hole is 3/8”) in the upper section of the electrical box, one for the thermostat connections, and one for the optional plenum heater connections.

A schematic diagram and electrical box layout diagram (ELB) can be found inside the electrical box cover of the unit as well as in the Model Specific section of the users manual. The Electrical Tables in the Model Specific section and the ELB diagram contain information about the size of wire for the connections, as well as the recommended breaker size. A properly qualified electrician should be retained to make the connections to the heat pump and associated controls. The connections to the heat pump MUST CONFORM TO LOCAL CODES.

THERMOSTAT REQUIREMENTS

Your unit includes the AMERICAN DREAM three-stage heating and two stage cooling thermostat with relay outputs for proper air mode operation. The stages are S1 = heat pump stage 1 , S2 = heat pump stage 2 S3 = electric auxiliary (heating only).

INDOOR LOOP CIRCULATOR WIRING

The Indoor Loop circulator provides flow between the heat pump and the buffer tank. The Two Stage Control Box has provisions for connecting the Indoor Circulator so that it will be
turned on whenever the heat pump is in water heat mode and the compressor operates. Connect line voltage (115 or 230VAC) to the terminals marked L1 and L2 of the Indoor Circulator Contactor. Connect the Indoor Loop circulator to the terminals marked P1 and P2. Ensure that the line voltage and circulator voltage rating are the same.

CONTROL BOARD
All heating / cooling units contain a control board that monitors the thermostat signals, safety controls and loop pressures. It controls the operation of the compressor, fan and auxiliary / emergency heat. It also activates the reversing valve and controls the loop sequencing when in cooling mode. Heating only units do not have a control board.
The number of cooling loops must be configured (done at the factory). There are two jumpers to the top right of the micro controller. The configuration is shown in TABLE 8.
There is also a jumper marked DEFAULT that should be left in place. The jumper marked IF NO B TERMINAL should be left place as well unless the thermostat used has a B terminal
that is constantly powered in heating mode.

The control board has 4 connectors: one for the thermostat connections; one for the heat pump component connections; one for the loop solenoid connections; and one for the safety control and loop pressure switch connections. There are also several LEDs to indicate the status of the control board. Refer to drawing 000301CDG for the location of the connectors and LEDs.

The Heart Beat LED flashes once every second. This indicates that the control board is operational. An on-board COP watchdog timer resets the microprocessor should anything affect code execution. The high and low pressure control LEDs flash once per second when a control is open. They will stay on if there is a permanent lockout. The loop switch LED will come on when the loop pressure switch is activated. Note that the loop switch is only for cooling mode, it does not affect heating mode operation.

There is a compressor short-cycle timer (default 2 minutes) and also a mode switch timer (default 5 minutes). Both are adjustable through the control board communications port.

Step 1. Unpack your system which is pre-tested and factory ready for your refrigeration tech to install the freon.
Step 2. Installation of loop field
Step 3. Lay your copper wiring(the farther apart the loops are the more efficient they will perform)
Step 4. Connect the wiring to your unit(inside)
Step 5. Fill the loop field with nitrogen to make sure there are NO leaks
Step 6. Bury the loop field
Step 7. Fill the loop field with the appropriate amount of freon
Step 8. Turn on your unit and enjoy clean and renewable ground source heating/cooling

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